Rose Hantina

Family Rosaceae. A beautiful cultivar with nostalgic flowers and high disease resistance.

Care: In the year of planting only the formation of the bush takes place. Vigorous shoots are pinched, and formed buds that have reached the size of a millet grain are removed. However, in the second half of summer they are allowed to develop up to flowering. Roses require regular loosening of the soil, watering, feeding, pruning, removal of weeds and wild suckers on the underground part, and protection from diseases and pests. In spring, after pruning and simultaneous application of fertilizers, a "pereshtykovka" of the soil is necessary (deep loosening with inversion of the soil layer) to a depth of up to 20 cm. During the summer, every 10 days the soil is loosened to a depth of 15–20 cm with simultaneous removal of weeds.

In the first year after planting, if the soil has been well supplied with fertilizers, additional feedings are not required, but later they become obligatory. They must be timed to the growth and development phases of the roses: the first is carried out in spring at the beginning of growth, the second during bud formation, the third after the end of flowering and before the new growth begins, the fourth before the shoots begin to lignify. Early in spring, after pruning the bushes, mineral fertilizers are applied per 1 m2: ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate - 20 g, superphosphate - 30 g, potassium salt - 10 g. For feeding you can also use compound fertilizers at the same rates: nitroammofoska - 40-45 g, nitrophos - 30-40 g, nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium fertilizer with microelements - 30-40 g, "Novinki" 20-16-10 - 40-50 g, fertilizer mix "Tsvetochnaya" - 30-40 g, liquid complex fertilizers (JKU) - 1 cup of solution per 10 l of clean water, etc. In spring, along with mineral fertilizers, well-rotted manure (humus) is necessarily applied: 5-6 kg/m2, since mineral fertilizers, especially applied in large doses, can suppress the microflora in the soil. Before feeding and also after feeding the bushes of roses are abundantly watered with clean water. It is not recommended to apply excessively large doses of fertilizers to roses, as this can cause considerable damage. In summer, for feeding roses use chicken manure, manure brew, wood ash. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied only until the end of July. In August, to accelerate shoot ripening only potassium and phosphorus are given, and watering is limited.

Proper pruning is of special importance for the development of roses; only by pruning can the growth of shoots and subsequent abundant flowering be ensured. Pruning is performed in spring, summer and autumn. Spring pruning is the main one. First of all, it shapes the bush. In summer flowering is regulated by cutting off faded flowers and forming hips; in autumn this is done before covering the bushes for the winter. Pruning means both thinning and shortening of shoots. Several types of pruning are distinguished. With light (long) pruning only the upper parts of the shoots are cut. This is mainly done for park and climbing roses, since their flowering shoots develop only on the upper and middle parts of last year's shoots. With moderate (medium-short) pruning 5-7 buds are left on the shoots — this mainly concerns remontant roses. With hard (short) pruning 2-3 buds are left on the shoots of remontant roses. Such pruning is performed for tea-hybrid, polyantha, floribunda and miniature roses. Shoots are cut with a sharp secateur 0.5–0.6 cm above a developed bud and at a 45° angle. The cut surface should be smooth, without cracks and burs. It should be sealed with garden pitch.

On grafted plants wild suckers appear below the graft union, and on standard-stem forms — along the entire trunk; these are regularly removed. Since roses during their development are at risk of many diseases — powdery mildew, black spot, infectious "burn", anthracnose, gray mold, as well as vascular diseases — appropriate preventive measures must be taken against them. The most dangerous pests of roses are cut aphid, gall mite, rose sawfly, rose leafhopper, spider mite, rose leafroller and others. Sanitary and preventive measures play the main role in protecting roses from damage and diseases — careful observance of agrotechnical conditions, systematic removal of affected parts by plants, and regular spraying with appropriate preparations, herbal infusions, etc.

Winter hardiness of roses depends substantially on the group. For example, tea-hybrid and some types of climbing roses are less winter-hardy in our latitudes, so they must be carefully covered. More hardy groups (floribunda, miniature, groundcover) require only light covering. Some park rose cultivars ('Pink Grootendorst', 'Persiana') do not need extra insulation. One can only marvel at their hardiness and abundant summer flowering.

In the middle zone and northward, most garden roses need winter covering and maintaining a relatively even temperature for them in winter — from 0 to -4°C — while providing good aeration. Covering of roses begins from the second half of October (not earlier), i.e. only after the first frosts; unripe shoots and leaves are removed, and ripe ones are shortened. After treatment with Bordeaux mixture (1%) or iron sulfate (3%) the roses are hilled up by 15-20 cm and then, in dry weather, covered. The most effective covering method is air-dry. Above the roses a metal frame 50–60 cm high is installed. Insulating material is laid on it — hydro-heat-insulating paper or pergamin, cardboard shields, and they are covered on top with polyethylene film. The most important thing is that it is dry under the covering, and the air layers under the frame protect the plants from overcooling. Climbing, standard and semi-climbing roses are bent to the ground, covered below and above with spruce boughs, and then with paper and film. Early in spring, during thaws, the space under the covering is necessarily ventilated by periodically opening its end. While the soil is not completely thawed and nightly frosts have not ceased, the roses remain under the film; then they are "de-hilled" and pruned. More detailed information on preparing roses for winter is given in the article by O. Chernetsova.

Protection from pests and diseases: Larvae of the sawfly eat the leaves, leaving only the veins. Treat with karbofos (0.1%) or metaphos (0.1–0.2%). Spider mite damages the leaves. Treat with chloroethanol (0.2%), repeat treatment after 20 days. Aphids: treat with karbofos (0.1%) or dust with pyrethrum twice at intervals of 7–10 days. Rose gall midge causes the formation of densely hairy galls on the leaves; pruning of galls is recommended. Black leaf spot affects leaves and shoots in the second half of summer. Spray with a copper-soap solution (30 g copper sulfate, 200 g soap per 10 l water). Systematic collection and destruction of affected leaves. Autumn treatment (before covering roses for winter) with DNOК (0.5–1%) or copper sulfate solution (5%). Powdery mildew affects young leaves, shoots and buds. It is recommended to spray with colloidal sulfur (0.6–0.8%), dust with ground sulfur with lime (2:1) or spray with a filtered infusion of fresh manure (1:10). With cane cancer (stem canker) affected branches are cut out to healthy wood. As a preventive measure, excessive or too-late application of nitrogen fertilizers should be avoided. Before leaf bud break, spray with copper sulfate (5%). For rust, roses are treated on the underside of the leaves with copper-containing preparations every three weeks. For prevention of mold-like gray rot, thorough plant care (loosening, mulching, fertilizing) is most effective. Affected parts of the plants should be cut out and burned.

Seed propagation is practiced only for wild roses (wild rose hips). Seeds are harvested at the beginning of fruit reddening. They are cleaned and kept in moist sand (stratified) for four months at a temperature of +2–5°C. In spring or autumn of the following year they are sown in a seedbed. Autumn sowing gives more seedlings than spring sowing. Seeds are buried to a depth of 1–3 cm, then the sowings are mulched with peat or humus. After the appearance of 2–3 true leaves, seedlings are pricked out. Spacing in the row is 6–8 cm, and between rows — 20 cm. In summer seedlings are fed with mineral fertilizers: nitrogen - 40 g, phosphorus - 60 g, potassium - 10 g per square meter. The following year they are carefully tended: watered, the soil loosened, weeds removed. Starting from August, seedlings can be used as rootstock.

All cultivar roses are propagated vegetatively — by bud or cutting grafting, rooting of green and lignified stem cuttings, division of the bush and root suckers (if, of course, the mother plants are own-root), as well as by layering.

Most rose nurseries sell seedlings already as grafted plants. Most often the rootstock is Rosa canina. To obtain bush roses the graft is usually made at its root collar, and standards are grafted on one-year shoots at a height of 1.2–2 m above the ground. To form good crowns requires 3–4 years.

Based on material from the website www.flower.onego.ru